A continuación incluyo un tutorial para hacer campos de cereal mediante tela de peluche. El artículo original que he copiado es de aquí. En nuestra asociación de La Historia en Guerra probaremos en breve a ver que tal quedan, si sale bien pondré un post contando como fué.
Faux Fur Terrain Tutorial
I've been making faux fur [Teddy Bear fur] terrain for a number of years at this point. The largest I've attempted at this time was Ligny, which was 111 square feet. A typical terrain, such as the one featured the the photos is 6 x 10, or 60 square feet. Below is a quick tutorial of a typical process I use to prepare a 6 x 10 mat. This was prepared for the Battle of St. Michael, 1809. I purchase the faux fur online from a company called C&R Crafts. The material comes about 5'-3" wide, and is purchased in 3' increments. A typical 6 x 10, takes four yards of material, which I cut into two pieces. A smaller 5' x 9' terrain, would be 3 yards of material. The material I use is Honey Bone in color with a pile length of about 1". This is suitable for 25/28 mm figures, lower pile material is also available, which I presume is suitable for 15/20 mm figures.
Step One:
One half of the terrain mat [5'x6'] brushed out with pins to mark one-foot grid. The gird is important as this is matched against the scale map that I will have made based upon a google aerial, or scale battlefield, map. This ensures accuracy of the final piece, and helps transfer the map features to the fur mat.
Step Two:
Terrain marked out with road layout and field boundaries. I use a wide black felt tip pen for this purpose.
Step Three:
Cutting process started - roads are cut out with beard trimmer leaving about an 1/8" pile. I also do my best to leave a slight rise down the center of the road, which I can highlight with a little green. In reality this is more relevant to 20th/21st Century country tracks, back in the day, the horses when hitched in tandem or individually would have quickly eliminated this slight crest - but I keep it as it gives a bit of definition to the roads/tracks.
Step Four:
Fields are being trimmed in this picture - grass or fallow fields are taken down to a short pile [1/2" to 3/4"], wheat fields are left higher [3/4" to 1"]. Rough terrain is hacked, as opposed to 'trimmed'
Step Five:
A view of the trimmed finished product - this is the other piece of the terrain mat. Notice the vacuum cleaner in the background - this is an essential piece of equipment, especially to keep the wife, or better half, happy..... the fur trimmings can get everywhere.
Step Six:
Another view of the trimmed finished product - this is the other piece of the terrain mat
Step Seven:
A view of one half of the finished terrain mat - painted with Rustoleum spray paints. I purchase these at Home Depot, and use the flat Camo range of colors for the base, then use a selection of satin finish colors to highlight the fields, roads and watercourses.
Step Eight:
Another view of one half of the finished terrain mat - the other half is still in the garage
The photos of the battle of San Miguel, below, and further down, St. Michael, show the terrain piece in action. Adjusting the location of hills beneath the terrain mat, and altering the building types, or placement of trees, walls, and hedgerows, can alter the appearance of the terrain. By using these methods, I've used this same mat to represent battles in the Tyrol, Spain, Russia, England and the American Colonies.
Faux Fur Terrain Tutorial
I've been making faux fur [Teddy Bear fur] terrain for a number of years at this point. The largest I've attempted at this time was Ligny, which was 111 square feet. A typical terrain, such as the one featured the the photos is 6 x 10, or 60 square feet. Below is a quick tutorial of a typical process I use to prepare a 6 x 10 mat. This was prepared for the Battle of St. Michael, 1809. I purchase the faux fur online from a company called C&R Crafts. The material comes about 5'-3" wide, and is purchased in 3' increments. A typical 6 x 10, takes four yards of material, which I cut into two pieces. A smaller 5' x 9' terrain, would be 3 yards of material. The material I use is Honey Bone in color with a pile length of about 1". This is suitable for 25/28 mm figures, lower pile material is also available, which I presume is suitable for 15/20 mm figures.
Step One:
One half of the terrain mat [5'x6'] brushed out with pins to mark one-foot grid. The gird is important as this is matched against the scale map that I will have made based upon a google aerial, or scale battlefield, map. This ensures accuracy of the final piece, and helps transfer the map features to the fur mat.
Step Two:
Terrain marked out with road layout and field boundaries. I use a wide black felt tip pen for this purpose.
Step Three:
Cutting process started - roads are cut out with beard trimmer leaving about an 1/8" pile. I also do my best to leave a slight rise down the center of the road, which I can highlight with a little green. In reality this is more relevant to 20th/21st Century country tracks, back in the day, the horses when hitched in tandem or individually would have quickly eliminated this slight crest - but I keep it as it gives a bit of definition to the roads/tracks.
Step Four:
Fields are being trimmed in this picture - grass or fallow fields are taken down to a short pile [1/2" to 3/4"], wheat fields are left higher [3/4" to 1"]. Rough terrain is hacked, as opposed to 'trimmed'
Step Five:
A view of the trimmed finished product - this is the other piece of the terrain mat. Notice the vacuum cleaner in the background - this is an essential piece of equipment, especially to keep the wife, or better half, happy..... the fur trimmings can get everywhere.
Step Six:
Another view of the trimmed finished product - this is the other piece of the terrain mat
Step Seven:
A view of one half of the finished terrain mat - painted with Rustoleum spray paints. I purchase these at Home Depot, and use the flat Camo range of colors for the base, then use a selection of satin finish colors to highlight the fields, roads and watercourses.
Step Eight:
Another view of one half of the finished terrain mat - the other half is still in the garage
The photos of the battle of San Miguel, below, and further down, St. Michael, show the terrain piece in action. Adjusting the location of hills beneath the terrain mat, and altering the building types, or placement of trees, walls, and hedgerows, can alter the appearance of the terrain. By using these methods, I've used this same mat to represent battles in the Tyrol, Spain, Russia, England and the American Colonies.
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